Gems 189 by Andy Warhol features a large round-cut emerald rendered in vivid greens and blues. The gemstone fills the center of the composition, giving the print a bold, luminous presence. Sharp facets, shifting tones, and loose hand-drawn black lines create a lively sense of motion. These sketch-like marks contrast with the gem’s smooth planes and give Gems 189 a dynamic still-life quality.
Gems 189 within the Gems Complete Portfolio
Gems 189 is one of four screenprints in Warhol’s Gems Complete Portfolio, produced in 1978. Each print in the series highlights a different gemstone—rubies, emeralds, and diamonds—through bold color, clean outlines, and stylized shading. Warhol began using hand-drawn lines during this period to build shadows and emphasize the structure of each object. Gems 189 shows this approach clearly: the emerald appears to glow, while its surrounding marks create texture and depth.
Still Life, Glamour, and Warhol’s Late 1970s Style
The Gems series reflects Warhol’s shift toward more expressive portraits and still lifes in the late 1970s. Works such as Skull and the Mick Jagger prints also feature hand-drawn marks layered over photographic images. This method departed from the mechanical look of earlier series like the Campbell’s Soup Cans I Complete Portfolio. Instead, Warhol embraced a more direct, energetic line that added personality to his still lifes and portraits.
Although Gems 189 focuses on an inanimate object, it still connects to Warhol’s fascination with glamour and iconic figures. Gems and luxury objects held a symbolic power in his work, echoing themes seen in portraits of celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe and Liz Taylor. The radiant emerald in Gems 189 becomes a stand-in for that same allure.
Jewelry, Identity, and the Personal Dimension of Gems 189
Gems 189 also reflects Warhol’s personal relationship with jewelry. After rising to fame, he collected pieces from Cartier, Harry Winston, and other luxury houses. He often wore these items discreetly, choosing to hide them beneath his clothing rather than display them publicly. This mixture of desire, secrecy, and self-expression gives the Gems series an autobiographical tone.
Warhol’s appreciation for opulence appears throughout his late 1970s and early 1980s work. Prints such as After the Party (1979), the Shoes series (1980), and Reigning Queens (1985) also explore themes of luxury, beauty, and display. In this context, Gems 189 stands as a vivid example of Warhol’s interest in objects that sparkle both visually and symbolically.
Photo credit: Andy Warhol, Gems, unique gelatin silver prints, c. 1978.
